New Year’s Eve is like the eye makeup superbowl, and you can’t miss the opportunity to get the most out of your ocular regions just by staying home this year. Another excuse that just doesn’t hold up? Hooded eyelids. Makeup can seem a lot harder to put on hooded eyes, but the solution is often easier than you think. You wouldn’t buy a foundation from a brand that doesn’t make your shadow, would you? Or are you trying to groom thick, curly hair with sagging, straight strand products? “People expect everything to look the same in everyone, and it won’t,” makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes said of Facetime. “But what’s wrong with that?” Hughes himself has partially covered eyes and is arguably the internet authority for remixing make-up looks suitable for people with similar lids. “People comment on things in my videos like, ‘But I don’t want to do my eyeliner in your weird way.’ The thing is, if you have covered eyes, you have to maneuver the product differently. Do you want it to look straight and graphic or misshapen? ”
A few weeks ago I went to the ITG Facebook group (still going strong, by the way!) And asked readers to share their most pressing questions about hooded eye makeup. And then I called Hughes to run through her, shoot fast, and get her best tips. Before we begin, a few general pointers. “People with hidden eyes should do everything with their eyes open,” said Hughes, because it is difficult to know which parts of the lid are otherwise visible. She also admitted that you might not do it perfectly the first time around. But Hughes’ mission with hooded eye makeup is to encourage people to practice and play, which is even more reason to try a new makeup look tonight. “You can read all of the tips you want, but until you actually try you won’t find out how to make things work with your own eyes. ” What are you waiting for? Why not experiment with …
Makeup that doesn’t move
When you have hooded eyes, the fold of skin over your eyelid can pull pigment where you don’t want it. Applying a proper primer to the lid can hold the makeup in place so it doesn’t slide around too much. “I don’t use primer or setting spray,” said Hughes, who prefers to reuse products you probably already own. “I start everywhere with a face mist. When I use eye cream, I stop at the eye socket bone and don’t go anywhere beyond it. “A sheer layer of Nars Soft Matte Concealer and a translucent powder (Hughes likes Nars and Bareminerals if you’re in the market for a repeat) on the lids is usually enough for even the oily ones.
A classic cat’s eye
Hughes’ unique cat-eye technology is now practically ubiquitous on the Internet and is based on a modified bat shape. First, draw a triangular wing with eyes wide open, relaxed, and stare straight ahead. Well, to address the wrinkles. “If there’s skin in the way your liner should go,” said Hughes, “fuck that skin, just get over it. Don’t try to make the wrinkles work for you.” If you start at the point, on where you want the tip of your wing to be, and pulling the line inward toward the corner of your eye will make it easier to skim the hooded part. As Hughes showed me on a video, pulling it out of the corner of your eye pulls the skin and leaves one behind wavy line – that doesn’t happen when you’re working outside. “Then I’ll go back to fill in the triangle.” She added. Once the shape is hidden, you can close your eyes to refine it. It should look like a graphic one-two punch. “I like to use a brush-tipped eyeliner for this,” said Hughes, “because wrinkles make things that flow easier to manipulate.” She likes Surratt’s best.
One smoky eye, two options
Here you have two options: the first is a subtle detail with smoky lashes. Sure, it’ll go under the crease of an obscure eye, but every time you blink, a sexy surprise is wrong. Hughes likes to use a soft cabbage pencil to smoke out the lash line – it’s easy to blend and add more until you get the darkness you want.
A second option is a more dramatic smoky eye, visible with your eyes open. For this you need to bring the color over your eyelid hood. “I think people are scared of getting color too close to their eyebrows, but I tend to get as close to their foreheads as possible,” said Hughes. Using a soft, fluffy brush, bring a medium-weight shade over the crease and towards the browbone. “If you put a highlight shade under your forehead and then a black shade on the lash line, you still get that fade and that softness.” In the worst case scenario, you can pull the color a little deeper with a concealer.
A glamorous fold
Without cutting a visible crease, Hughes explains that you need to get a little artistic. Cover the lid with shadow to the browbone (a cake!) And then take a moment to assess your eye shape and what you want to achieve. “For lack of better formulation, a hooded eye swallows a lot of makeup,” said Hughes. A cut crease should be visible with your eyes open, so you’ll need to block a shape above the crease with your eyes open too. Hughes likes to use a matte concealer on a precision brush for this part. “The bigger the shape you draw with concealer, the bigger your eyes will look,” she described. But there’s a catch 22 – the higher you draw your cut, the less shadow color will be visible over it. Consequences? Once you’ve figured out the shape with your eyes open, you can close your eyes to fill it in with concealer. It doesn’t look exactly the same with your eyes closed, but you get the look you want by looking straight ahead.
Glitter, euphoria-like or different
For a glittery look, whether over shadows or gems, Hughes has only one rule: don’t place it under the crease. “If you place glitter with your eyes closed when you open your eyes, you will lose some of it,” she explained. After applying your glitter with your eyes open, Hughes suggests that you blink and look again. “When I see that some of the glitter is transferred, I’ll go a little higher over the crease wherever that transfer is.” Changing the shape of your makeup is a lot easier than struggling with the shape of your eye and looks just as good. A word on the wise, if you’re concerned about turning too much over it when you cover that much area, it helps to use soft shades of glitter.
A pop of light color
So many different routes with this one! Most obviously, you can cover your entire lid in a light color so that it looks like a liner with your eyes open and makes a bold statement with your eyes closed. “What people don’t realize is that while you may not be able to see it if you chill with your eyes open, people will see a flash of color when you blink.”
You can also avoid the hooded eyelids puzzle altogether. “I looked at myself a long time ago where I was doing orange in the inner corners and that was it. It was really fun, ”said Hughes, who recommends playing around with different placements. Another of her favorites that isn’t about the lid at all is just covering the lower lash line with shadow.
If you want a graphic look, Hughes suggests working with your unique eye crease to create your own shape. “I saw something really cool recently where the makeup artist did his eyeliner while it was still wet, looked up, and then used the transfer mark as a guide to draw a more deliberate line.” A wet MAC eyeliner brush turns any shade color into lining for precise lines. “These are the three best friends you can ever have for an eyeliner,” added Hughes.
Photo via ITG